This is the engaging setting in the only Japanese restaurant on the Far South Coast.

A sign with the name of Merimbula's newest food hot spot, 'Umi-Ko Izakaya', glowed in neon red, as head chef Kaoru Ito smiled from the kitchen and the koi fish inked on his arm showed his heritage. Meanwhile co-owner Jamie Sverdrupsen reorganised the chairs and tables in the dining area.

The artworks adorning the walls of the restaurant were created by Jamie's brother-in-law, tattoo artist Locky Harley, and signs by Declan Harley, bunting and metal signage also helped to transport diners to the depths of Japan. Only the sight of Merimbula outside the windows brought them back to reality.

Owned by Brett and Chloe Kryskow, Kat Harley and Jamie Sverdrupsen, the four are excited by how the community has embraced the new business on 56 Market Steet.

Plans for the venture began before Jamie became co-owner of Bar Monti, an Italian business only a few minutes walk around the corner from where the new restaurant is located. He and a friend started a pop-up during COVID, and realised Japanese food was extremely popular.

"We went through all the cuisines we like to eat, so Japanese, Balinese, Vietnamese, Chinese, and we found by far that Japanese was the most liked. It just went bananas compared to anything else," Jamie said.

"There's no Japanese [restaurants] in town, there's no Japanese until you get to Ulladulla, and then there's nothing until Bairnsdale and Jindabyne, so we just saw a bit of a hole in the market, but more than that we did it because we like Japanese.

"We're not going for super fancy, we're going for accessible, family friendly."

Defining the name, he said Umi was the ocean, Ko was child or offspring, and Izakaya was stay-drink-place, which captured the aspects of Merimbula with the closeness to the sea, the venture as a new birth, and the atmosphere within the restaurant.

Since opening the doors three weeks ago, Umi-Ko Izakaya had received a warm welcome by the community, which made Jamie reminisce about what he had achieved since graduating high school in Eden over a decade ago, and the early days as an apprentice at the pub.

Head chef Kaoru Ito said with his heritage being Japanese, he had always wanted the opportunity to cook the cuisine to showcase his background and strong point. His favourite menu option though was a little difficult to pick.

"Tuna is probably one of my favourites, tempura battered tuna rolled in the shiso and seaweed, and we tempura batter for about minute so the inside is completely raw," Kaoru said.

You could see his dedication to his craft and the cuisine by how he smiled when describing its texture, colour and umami; a Japanese word to describe savoury deliciousness that deepens flavour.

"You have this colour contrast, the white from the tempura, the black and green from shiso and seaweed, and the red inside. It's really pretty, and we serve it with a bit of uso and ponzu, soy and citrus," he said.